Laying tile flooring, although a task not for the faint of heart, can be learned. And if this is something that you want to do by yourself, here’s a DIY instruction from the Pros. To get started you will need:
Box of tile, Tape measure, Speed square, Notched trowel, 5-gallon buckets, Safety glasses and earplugs, Mixing paddle, Scoring cutter or wet saw, Tile spacers, Grout Sponge, Rubber float, pencil, level, Power drill, Kneepads and Handsaw or jamb saw.
Ceramic tiles, Cement backer board, Cement board screws, Measuring Floor, Thin-set mortar, Sealer, Grout.
Carefully measure your flooring and establish the number of square feet required. For rectangular or square rooms, multiply the width of the room by the length, rounding up all measurements to the nearest square foot. Partition odd shaped surfaces into rectangular or square sections. Compute the square footage for every section and add them up.
A broad range of ceramic mosaic tile flooring patterns is available. Tiles come in a wide variety of styles, sizes, and colors.
Take note of the following points when shopping for an appropriate tile:
If this is the first tile project you are conducting, keep the pattern and layout simple.
Big tiles work perfectly on larger surfaces, but can also dominate smaller spaces.
Consider tiles with textured or rough finishing, as glossy surfaces are slippery when wet.
Buy ten to fifteen percent more tile than is required to account for mistakes, breakage, and possible future replacement.
Scrape old adhesives off the floor.
Begin by removing the current flooring. Scrape off any remaining mortar or adhesives, and then clean the flooring thoroughly.
Countercheck to confirm that the subfloor is level and flat. Fill any cracks and low spots in a concrete subfloor using a concrete patching agent.
For hardwood framing, ensure the subfloor is rigid, dry and attached securely to the joists.
Never install tile floorings directly to a wooden or plywood subfloor. Instead, coat the subfloor using a cement backer plank, utilizing corrosion resistant screws, which are countersunk flush with the surface.
Blend up a thin-set mortar in 5-gallon buckets with a blending paddle chucked into a lower speed drill. Follow the guidelines, making sure to use the right ratio of water to mortar combination.
Only blend up as much mortar mixture as can be used for fifteen to twenty minutes. Keep another bucket of clean water and a sponge ready to wipe off any excesses and to clean the tools.
Using a notched trowel, spread the mortar on a tiny area where you will begin laying the tile. Position the tiles in the mortar alongside the instructions and press firmly into place.
After laying the tiles and setting the mortar, fill the joints with grout. Grout that is not sanded may be used on joints that are less than an eighth-inch, whereas larger joints need to be sanded grout. Clean these joints to eliminate any debris and dust before filling.
Mix the grout using a recommended amount of water in a bucket using a power drill and a mixing paddle. Allow it to rest for five to ten minutes then mix again.
Give the grout time to set up, then rinse off any excess with a bucket of clean water and a sponge, working at a predefined angle to the tiles.
After the grout is hardened for the recommended period, apply a sealer to the joints using a foam brush or an applicator bottle.